Walking Wild & Free

Epsom Salt Works & Crystal Hills 1

Epsom Salt Works & Crystal Hills

Epsom Salt Works & Crystal Hills 1

Epsom Salt Works & Crystal Hills

Hike an old mining road to beautiful colored hills and an old Epsom salt works.

Total Distance: 6.7 miles out & back	Elevation Gain: 896ft. (3,310ft. to 2,499ft.)
Difficulty: Easy	5-10 Mile Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
View Rating: 4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0	Author’s Rating: 4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
Visitor Rating: (Click to rate) [Total: 0 Average: 0]	Visitor Difficulty Rating: (Click to rate) [Total: 0 Average: 0]
Pets: No	Horses: Yes
Best Seasons: November-April	Special Permits: None. Do not trespass into the military reservation.
Water Availability: None	Overnight Options: Dispersed camping permitted
Trailhead Amenities: None	Crowd Factor: Solitude
Trailhead Access: 2.0 4×4 appreciated, though high clearance may be ok in dry weather
Uses:	Trail Surface:
Features:	Hazards:

Mile-by-Mile: Epsom Salt Works & Crystal Hills

0.0 Beginning of old road where the Owl Hole Spring Road turns sharply north (3,310ft.). The old road is marked by a sign indicating that it is under wilderness restoration; foot and horse traffic only. Follow the old road westward across the desert toward the distant mountains. As the route heads downhill, enjoy views north to the Panamint and Owlshead Mountains. The road rolls gently downhill. Before too long, you’ll be able to see the Crystal Hills, including the colorful badlands on their eastern end (which is your destination). (35.690860°, -116.907586°)

1.2 Davis Gate (2,906ft.). This gate marks the boundary of San Bernardino County as well as the boundary of the Fort Irwin Military Reservation. Do not cross the fence or go through the gate or in any way trespass on the military reservation. Instead, turn right to follow the fence north. The road also vaguely turns north. Follow the road northward, as the fence ends abruptly after a short distance at a small hill. Walk over the hill, being careful not to turn left. The road may become difficult to follow or become invisible; if so, just keep heading north. (35.698477°, -116.924573°)

1.75 Road split (2,866ft.). The road splits north (right) and northwest (left). Take the right road, but instead of following it, go due north to avoid trespassing on military land. If the road junction is invisible, just keep walking north. (35.705751°, -116.923824°)

2.0 Approximate northern boundary of the Fort Irwin Military Reservation (2,823ft.). You can now turn west or northwest to head for the colorful Crystal Hills. (35.709783°, -116.924382°)

2.4 Dirt Road (2,688ft.). Somewhere along the way, you’ll run into this road (where exactly you come out on the road is definitely up to you). When you hit the road, turn right (northwest) on the road and follow it to the Crystal Hills. To my knowledge, it is ok to walk on the road since it crosses public property. However, always follow the guidance of any signs and markers. Do not turn left (south) as the road quickly enters the military reservation. You may also see signs about protecting desert tortoises; there are many burrows in the area. The road passes by a levee built for the Epsom salt monorail and enters the Crystal Hills, which are beautiful shades of brown, yellow, pink, and red. Keep your eyes open for the crystal-like rocks that give the hills their name. (35.711908°, -116.930590°)

3.3 Leave road (2,499ft.). Just before the road makes a sharp turn to the northeast, turn left, off the road, to explore the ruins of two old buildings. The first is right next to the road, while the other is about 0.05 miles to the north. Also keep your eyes open for the Epsom Salt Monorail – all that remains are the uprights that carried the rail. The monorail was installed to interest investors in the Epsom Salt Works. A few mine shafts still remain in the area. After exploring the mining ruins and the Crystal Hills, you can continue to follow the Navy road – you’ll fairly quickly encounter a naval reservation boundary (which, thankfully, has a gate marking where you can and cannot go). Just into the naval reservation is a well-preserved trestle from the monorail – which you’re welcome to view from public land. (35.722853°, -116.936827°)

History & More

The Crystal Hills received their name from the epsomite, alum, and salt deposits that make the hills sparkle.

The Epsom Salt Works were in peak production during 1924-1925, when 15 workers scraped up the Epsom salt using garden hoes. A 28-mile monorail was constructed to carry the salt across the desert – unfortunately, it was an economic failure. The Douglass fir wooden supports splintered and warped in the summer heat and dry desert, and the track was often washed out by flash floods. Added to this, the engines were not strong enough to haul the ore cars. The track still earned the nickname “fastest monorail in the world” when the braking system failed (a common occurrence), and the tractor and cars completed the entire 28 mile rail in only one hour. In 1926, the mine was shut down after the original supply of magnesium sulfate was exhausted, and the remaining Epsom salts were found to be of poor quality. In the 1930s, the rail and wooden “riding beams” that sat on top of the a-frame trestles were removed.

Don’t forget to explore around the badlands if you have extra time – the washes make excellent “trails,” and the views are unlike anything you’ll see in most national parks.

It’s easier to avoid military land on your way to the Crystal Hills than on your way back. While walking back along the naval road, you should come to some signs – at this point, turn left, walk about 0.4-ish miles due east, and then turn right and walk due south until you come back to the defunct road near the Davis Gate.

Download Route Map

Driving Directions

The route begins along the Owl Hole Spring Road, 2.4 miles from the end of the road, and 16.2 miles west of the Randsburg Road Junction.